Sunday 2 November 2014
Stage 4: Bentley to Seale
Coming soon - there are so many photos, and so much happened each day that it's taking quite a while to go through it all!
Thursday 30 October 2014
Stage 3: Four Marks to Bentley
Tuesday 15th July OS Map 132 (Winchester)
Left home 9am, walking by 12pm.
A hot day! Deep blue sky, fluffy clouds, bright sunshine.
Away from the Itchen valley, the countryside becomes more rolling.
English countryside, with a touch of the exotic! This pair made me smile.
Further down the hill, an old farmhouse basking in the noon-day sun.
The half-tiled walls remind me of Kentish houses.
Lunch stop.
By 1.30pm the heat was stunning. This photo is taken from the welcome shade of a small tree - a good place to eat lunch.
It was quiet. No birds, no people, no traffic, no breeze. The temptation to have a snooze was almost overwhelming! Before sleep claimed me, I scrambled to my feet, shouldered my rucksack, ventured out into the sun and started walking along the path towards the clump of trees in the distance.
Past the clump of trees, down the hill, cross the busy A32 and into Chawton. The path goes past Jane Austen's home, now a museum.
Jane Austen was one of the themes threading through this walk. A fan of her books, it was fortunate that I'd been here last year otherwise I would have had to stop walking and go in!
Opposite the house is 'Cassandra's Tea Room'. As I carried on walking, I wondered what pithy comment J.A. would have made about the tea room's name.
St Nicholas church, Chawton
At the end of the day's walk I returned to see the church. Jane Austen would have attended services here. As it was late in the day, the door was locked. In the graveyard, tucked into a secluded corner near the church, I found the graves of the two Cassandra Austens, mother and sister of Jane. Jane Austen is buried in Winchester cathedral.
Leaving Chawton, the path goes under one of the many underpasses I encountered on the walk. This one saved me having to cross the busy A31.
Then on to the nearby small town of Alton.
All Saints, Alton
A cool and peaceful refuge on a hot day....
...with a warm welcome!
The sign says:
'Let all guests who arrive be received like Christ, for He is going to say, "I came as a guest, and you received Me." (Matt. 25:35)'
Passing through the small, busy town of Alton, the path wandered out into the countryside and on to the village of Holybourne, and Holy Rood church.
3.15pm and the bench visible in the bottom left hand of the photo was a comfortable spot to rest my hot feet and to have a drink.
Having settled down on the bench, the sound of buzzing became apparent and came from a swarm of bees collecting at the apex of the cream-coloured aisle.
Inside I could still hear the buzzing of bees as I wandered around slowly, waiting for my eyes to readjust to the dark interior. There was a leaflet about time with the following on it:
'There is a time for everything, and a season for every activity under the heavens. (Ecclesiastes 3, v.1)
The leaflet recommended reflection on how we spend our time. Being a Christian is a 24 hour a day, 365 days a year commitment, and it asked how much time in the day do we make available to God?
Leaving Holybourne, there was only a short distance to the next village of Froyle.
The church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary is built of brick, unlike the other small country churches which seem to be predominantly stone. On a card on the table was the following:
'The Lord preserve thy going out and thy coming in'.
At the back of the church was a large glass case containing some ornate and colourful embroidery.
Close-up of the centre flower
Time, as always, was pressing and unable to find any history of these garments, I left the church. One of the many places I want to return to at a later date. I'd love to know who did the embroidery and when.
Still pondering over the exquisite colours and the amount of time taken to do the embroidery, I missed the footpath sign! As in most cases of map reading errors, I ended up walking a little further. The detour did have one benefit: I got to see this beautiful old building.
The afternoon was hot, and after a short way on leafy lanes, the path came out into open countryside baking in the afternoon sun. I trudged on, getting hotter and hotter, glad of my sun hat.
The path ahead. The wheat is already ripe and the path dry and dusty. The picture doesn't show the view shimmering in heat haze.
Just after taking this photo, a man came jogging over the slight crest of a hill - watching him made me feel even hotter!
Although I had water, it didn't seem to quench my thirst. The hotter I became, the more I thought about a cool, fizzy bottle of Coca Cola! The map showed a Post Office at Bentley and with luck it would be part of a small shop. Would I get there before closing time?
I did, and there was chilled Coca Cola available - and directions of where to find the bus stop to get back to Four Marks! Outside I twisted the bottle cap off. Pfffffstttttt! I drank. The cool, fizzy, sweet liquid hit the spot. Weird - I hardly ever drink the stuff but it was just right in every way.
Back at Four Marks the chippy was open and enticing smells pulled me towards the door. A crispy piece of haddock, golden chips with salt and vinegar, washed down with the rems of the cola. Hideously unhealthy, wonderfully tasty, and it gave me some much-needed energy. Fortified, I drove to Chawton to see the church. By this time it was cooler, the sky had cleared of clouds and everything was bathed in the rich gold sunshine of early evening.
This seat in St Nicholas' peaceful churchyard, in the warmth of the sun tempted me to sit and stay awhile, but it was getting late and time to head for home. I left reluctantly but well satisfied and content with completing another section of the walk.
Left home 9am, walking by 12pm.
A hot day! Deep blue sky, fluffy clouds, bright sunshine.
Away from the Itchen valley, the countryside becomes more rolling.
English countryside, with a touch of the exotic! This pair made me smile.
Further down the hill, an old farmhouse basking in the noon-day sun.
The half-tiled walls remind me of Kentish houses.
By 1.30pm the heat was stunning. This photo is taken from the welcome shade of a small tree - a good place to eat lunch.
It was quiet. No birds, no people, no traffic, no breeze. The temptation to have a snooze was almost overwhelming! Before sleep claimed me, I scrambled to my feet, shouldered my rucksack, ventured out into the sun and started walking along the path towards the clump of trees in the distance.
Past the clump of trees, down the hill, cross the busy A32 and into Chawton. The path goes past Jane Austen's home, now a museum.
Jane Austen was one of the themes threading through this walk. A fan of her books, it was fortunate that I'd been here last year otherwise I would have had to stop walking and go in!
Opposite the house is 'Cassandra's Tea Room'. As I carried on walking, I wondered what pithy comment J.A. would have made about the tea room's name.
At the end of the day's walk I returned to see the church. Jane Austen would have attended services here. As it was late in the day, the door was locked. In the graveyard, tucked into a secluded corner near the church, I found the graves of the two Cassandra Austens, mother and sister of Jane. Jane Austen is buried in Winchester cathedral.
Then on to the nearby small town of Alton.
All Saints, Alton
A cool and peaceful refuge on a hot day....
...with a warm welcome!
The sign says:
'Let all guests who arrive be received like Christ, for He is going to say, "I came as a guest, and you received Me." (Matt. 25:35)'
Passing through the small, busy town of Alton, the path wandered out into the countryside and on to the village of Holybourne, and Holy Rood church.
3.15pm and the bench visible in the bottom left hand of the photo was a comfortable spot to rest my hot feet and to have a drink.
Having settled down on the bench, the sound of buzzing became apparent and came from a swarm of bees collecting at the apex of the cream-coloured aisle.
Inside I could still hear the buzzing of bees as I wandered around slowly, waiting for my eyes to readjust to the dark interior. There was a leaflet about time with the following on it:
'There is a time for everything, and a season for every activity under the heavens. (Ecclesiastes 3, v.1)
The leaflet recommended reflection on how we spend our time. Being a Christian is a 24 hour a day, 365 days a year commitment, and it asked how much time in the day do we make available to God?
Leaving Holybourne, there was only a short distance to the next village of Froyle.
'The Lord preserve thy going out and thy coming in'.
At the back of the church was a large glass case containing some ornate and colourful embroidery.
Close-up of the centre flower
Time, as always, was pressing and unable to find any history of these garments, I left the church. One of the many places I want to return to at a later date. I'd love to know who did the embroidery and when.
Still pondering over the exquisite colours and the amount of time taken to do the embroidery, I missed the footpath sign! As in most cases of map reading errors, I ended up walking a little further. The detour did have one benefit: I got to see this beautiful old building.
The afternoon was hot, and after a short way on leafy lanes, the path came out into open countryside baking in the afternoon sun. I trudged on, getting hotter and hotter, glad of my sun hat.
The path ahead. The wheat is already ripe and the path dry and dusty. The picture doesn't show the view shimmering in heat haze.
Just after taking this photo, a man came jogging over the slight crest of a hill - watching him made me feel even hotter!
Although I had water, it didn't seem to quench my thirst. The hotter I became, the more I thought about a cool, fizzy bottle of Coca Cola! The map showed a Post Office at Bentley and with luck it would be part of a small shop. Would I get there before closing time?
I did, and there was chilled Coca Cola available - and directions of where to find the bus stop to get back to Four Marks! Outside I twisted the bottle cap off. Pfffffstttttt! I drank. The cool, fizzy, sweet liquid hit the spot. Weird - I hardly ever drink the stuff but it was just right in every way.
Back at Four Marks the chippy was open and enticing smells pulled me towards the door. A crispy piece of haddock, golden chips with salt and vinegar, washed down with the rems of the cola. Hideously unhealthy, wonderfully tasty, and it gave me some much-needed energy. Fortified, I drove to Chawton to see the church. By this time it was cooler, the sky had cleared of clouds and everything was bathed in the rich gold sunshine of early evening.
This seat in St Nicholas' peaceful churchyard, in the warmth of the sun tempted me to sit and stay awhile, but it was getting late and time to head for home. I left reluctantly but well satisfied and content with completing another section of the walk.
Tuesday 23 September 2014
Stage 2: New Alresford to Four Marks
Wednesday 9th July OS Map 132 (Winchester)
An accident with a wheelie bin caused damage to my hand and a long pause between stage 1 and 2 because I couldn't drive. By early July my fingers could operate the gear lever and handbrake well enough to get me back to Hampshire.
New Alresford
Part of a large plaque on a wall near St John the Baptist church shows part of its long history; it was granted to the church at Winchester by Kenwalc, a 7th century king of Wessex.
The small, attractive town of New Alresford was bustling with people on the sunny Wednesday morning of 9th July. On Google Maps there had been spaces in the bird's-eye view of the small car park. Today the were none.
There are those who pray for car park spaces, so I sent up an urgent prayer. Arriving at the exit and just about to leave, I stared in amazement as a car pulled out in front of me. All I had to do was roll forward and straight in to the vacated space. A prayer answered? I said thank you, just in case.
Even before getting to the main road, I got distracted by a magnificent display of cakes and buns in a shop window. A slab of ginger cake with lemon icing tucked in my rucksack, I set off to walk back to where I'd left the St Swithun's Way nearly 2 months before.
Watercress
The path ran to the south of the town, and past what this area is famous for: watercress beds.
The fast flowing, clear water is idea for the growing of watercress which looked so green and healthy, and induced thoughts of watercress and orange salad, watercress soup, and other watercressy delights, but approaching footsteps diverted me from this pleasant reverie.
Wildlife!
Solitary walkers seldom pass each other without some exchange. As we chatted, the elderly chap said he'd once done a 22 hour overnight run and his knees had never been the same afterwards. But he managed an hour walk everyday with Connie. I looked round and could see no one; then a shaggy, golden head appeared over the side of the stream. Connie was a golden labrador and had been walking along the shallow, fast-flowing stream alongside the path.
One of the pleasures of walking is finding a good picnic spot for lunch. A grassy bank next to a watercress bed looked ideal, so I got out my food and flask and the ginger cake. Word had gone out, or maybe it was just the smell, and the local wildlife turned out in force. Ants were suddenly swarming over everything! They wanted my cake but anything would do - including me. It was a peculiarly Hitchcockian moment. Preferable, thought, to the scenes of picnics in Tom and Jerry - do you remember? The ants picking up all the food and disappearing with it in a line, food held high. I grabbed my food, removing squadrons of ants, and repacked everything in my rucksac. It doesn't do to sit on an ants nest! Lunch was delayed.
Wildlife, though, is one of the joys of walking especially in spring. This walk was full of wild flowers, butterflies, damselflies, buzzards and kites.
A chance sighting, and the only ones seen on the walk, of wild orchids. Their pale, delicate beauty nestling in a patch of grass was a delight.
St Nicholas' church, Bishop's Sutton
A welcome bench opposite the porch of St Nicholas' church provided a good spot for lunch.
Flint walls, brick porch and wooden tower made for a pleasing and strangely harmonious whole. The church dates back to Norman times; the small, round-topped windows indicate their great age.
A closed bible on the lectern had a pink sticky marking Matthew 10 v. 9 - 11
"Do not get any gold, or silver, or copper to take with you in your belts - no bag for the journey or extra shirt or sandals or a staff, for the worker is worth his keep."
The church was cool and peaceful. I wanted to stay and read about its history and yet also wanted to walk as far as possible. I looked round and left the quiet calmness and went on my way, thankful for the brief respite from the hot sunshine. There was another church on the path, another place to pause a while.
St Peter's church, Ropley
Coming off St Swithun's Way and walking up the road a little way, thick evergreen foliage hid the church so it wasn't until I'd opened the gate and gone into the churchyard that the shocking sight brought me to a halt. It was one of those moments to make one stop and stare with incomprehension at the totally unexpected.
Later I found out that the fire had happened only two weeks ago. It started in the morning, caused by an electrical fault. I walked on, shocked and saddened by the loss.
Lost in the Woods
Early on, the paths had been wide and easy going, like the one next to the watercress beds.
Later they became narrower, more uneven and took me across fields of wheat and barley,
and finally became a confused muddle in the depths of a wood.
On the map, two paths were marked going through the wood. There were four paths. One area had been logged, with the tree trunks still laying around in disorder obliterating St Swithun's Way.
I got well and truly lost!
This is where a sat nav would be useful but I choose not to carry one. Part of the fun of walking alone is trying to map read accurately, but woods seem always to pose problems. Today the compass wasn't necessary as the sun was shining, and I kept it behind me making my way to the other side of the wood. Coming along the edge of the wood I searched for signs of the St Swithun's Way...and found it.
It sounds simple but wasn't. There were brambles to snag and catch at the legs, felled trees blocked the path. The path branched occasionally and a couple of times I ended up in an impassable dead end. Flies buzzed around in the still, humid air, and I got hotter and hotter. Doubt and dismay drove away the pleasure of being out in the country. And an absurd amount of relief felt when, emerging from the wood and walking down the side of it, I got back on the path. A stile out of the wood, a finger post proclaiming 'St Swithun's Way' and the clear path, snaking across a wheatfield, which I swung onto, back on track, happy again and glad to be out in the fresh air.
All too soon the hours passed and it was time to leave St Swithun's Way to go north to the main road.
This path took me across fields and then between high garden hedges.
Late afternoon and flies enjoyed the still air. It pays to walk with the mouth closed in such places.
The path emerged onto the main road, opposite a Co-op store - a source of water and a bag of tangy satsumas which kept me going while I waited for the bus back to New Alresford.
Back in New Alresford I went to look at the church, drowsing in the early evening sunshine. Too late; it was locked.
New Alresford, market place with St John the Baptist church in the background
Wandering back towards the car, the smell of fish and chips beckoned. The young woman behind the counter said she was going walking soon, to the Lake District. We chatted about walking and she gave me an enormous helping of chips with the fish. Perhaps I looked hungry? I was hungry. Back in the car I ate the whole lot - and very good they were too!
Stage 2 completed.
Distance on path: 8.4 miles
Total distance : 9.9 miles
An accident with a wheelie bin caused damage to my hand and a long pause between stage 1 and 2 because I couldn't drive. By early July my fingers could operate the gear lever and handbrake well enough to get me back to Hampshire.
New Alresford
Part of a large plaque on a wall near St John the Baptist church shows part of its long history; it was granted to the church at Winchester by Kenwalc, a 7th century king of Wessex.
The small, attractive town of New Alresford was bustling with people on the sunny Wednesday morning of 9th July. On Google Maps there had been spaces in the bird's-eye view of the small car park. Today the were none.
There are those who pray for car park spaces, so I sent up an urgent prayer. Arriving at the exit and just about to leave, I stared in amazement as a car pulled out in front of me. All I had to do was roll forward and straight in to the vacated space. A prayer answered? I said thank you, just in case.
Even before getting to the main road, I got distracted by a magnificent display of cakes and buns in a shop window. A slab of ginger cake with lemon icing tucked in my rucksack, I set off to walk back to where I'd left the St Swithun's Way nearly 2 months before.
Watercress
The path ran to the south of the town, and past what this area is famous for: watercress beds.
The fast flowing, clear water is idea for the growing of watercress which looked so green and healthy, and induced thoughts of watercress and orange salad, watercress soup, and other watercressy delights, but approaching footsteps diverted me from this pleasant reverie.
Wildlife!
Solitary walkers seldom pass each other without some exchange. As we chatted, the elderly chap said he'd once done a 22 hour overnight run and his knees had never been the same afterwards. But he managed an hour walk everyday with Connie. I looked round and could see no one; then a shaggy, golden head appeared over the side of the stream. Connie was a golden labrador and had been walking along the shallow, fast-flowing stream alongside the path.
One of the pleasures of walking is finding a good picnic spot for lunch. A grassy bank next to a watercress bed looked ideal, so I got out my food and flask and the ginger cake. Word had gone out, or maybe it was just the smell, and the local wildlife turned out in force. Ants were suddenly swarming over everything! They wanted my cake but anything would do - including me. It was a peculiarly Hitchcockian moment. Preferable, thought, to the scenes of picnics in Tom and Jerry - do you remember? The ants picking up all the food and disappearing with it in a line, food held high. I grabbed my food, removing squadrons of ants, and repacked everything in my rucksac. It doesn't do to sit on an ants nest! Lunch was delayed.
Wildlife, though, is one of the joys of walking especially in spring. This walk was full of wild flowers, butterflies, damselflies, buzzards and kites.
A chance sighting, and the only ones seen on the walk, of wild orchids. Their pale, delicate beauty nestling in a patch of grass was a delight.
St Nicholas' church, Bishop's Sutton
A welcome bench opposite the porch of St Nicholas' church provided a good spot for lunch.
Flint walls, brick porch and wooden tower made for a pleasing and strangely harmonious whole. The church dates back to Norman times; the small, round-topped windows indicate their great age.
A closed bible on the lectern had a pink sticky marking Matthew 10 v. 9 - 11
"Do not get any gold, or silver, or copper to take with you in your belts - no bag for the journey or extra shirt or sandals or a staff, for the worker is worth his keep."
St Peter's church, Ropley
Coming off St Swithun's Way and walking up the road a little way, thick evergreen foliage hid the church so it wasn't until I'd opened the gate and gone into the churchyard that the shocking sight brought me to a halt. It was one of those moments to make one stop and stare with incomprehension at the totally unexpected.
Later I found out that the fire had happened only two weeks ago. It started in the morning, caused by an electrical fault. I walked on, shocked and saddened by the loss.
Lost in the Woods
Early on, the paths had been wide and easy going, like the one next to the watercress beds.
and finally became a confused muddle in the depths of a wood.
On the map, two paths were marked going through the wood. There were four paths. One area had been logged, with the tree trunks still laying around in disorder obliterating St Swithun's Way.
I got well and truly lost!
This is where a sat nav would be useful but I choose not to carry one. Part of the fun of walking alone is trying to map read accurately, but woods seem always to pose problems. Today the compass wasn't necessary as the sun was shining, and I kept it behind me making my way to the other side of the wood. Coming along the edge of the wood I searched for signs of the St Swithun's Way...and found it.
It sounds simple but wasn't. There were brambles to snag and catch at the legs, felled trees blocked the path. The path branched occasionally and a couple of times I ended up in an impassable dead end. Flies buzzed around in the still, humid air, and I got hotter and hotter. Doubt and dismay drove away the pleasure of being out in the country. And an absurd amount of relief felt when, emerging from the wood and walking down the side of it, I got back on the path. A stile out of the wood, a finger post proclaiming 'St Swithun's Way' and the clear path, snaking across a wheatfield, which I swung onto, back on track, happy again and glad to be out in the fresh air.
All too soon the hours passed and it was time to leave St Swithun's Way to go north to the main road.
This path took me across fields and then between high garden hedges.
Late afternoon and flies enjoyed the still air. It pays to walk with the mouth closed in such places.
The path emerged onto the main road, opposite a Co-op store - a source of water and a bag of tangy satsumas which kept me going while I waited for the bus back to New Alresford.
Back in New Alresford I went to look at the church, drowsing in the early evening sunshine. Too late; it was locked.
New Alresford, market place with St John the Baptist church in the background
Wandering back towards the car, the smell of fish and chips beckoned. The young woman behind the counter said she was going walking soon, to the Lake District. We chatted about walking and she gave me an enormous helping of chips with the fish. Perhaps I looked hungry? I was hungry. Back in the car I ate the whole lot - and very good they were too!
Stage 2 completed.
Distance on path: 8.4 miles
Total distance : 9.9 miles
Sunday 31 August 2014
Stage 1: Winchester to New Alresford
Monday 19th May 2014 Map: OS Explorer 132 (Winchester)
The park and ride bus dropped me at the bus station. Following directions given to me on the bus by a friendly woman who got off the stop before me, I was soon lost. A steady stream of people were walking towards an alley between two buildings so I followed. It opened out onto one of the main streets in Winchester, and on the wall opposite the end of the alley was this:
The Scripture Truth says:
Trust in the
Lord with all
thine heart;
and
lean not unto
thine own
understanding.
The signpost listed many places but not Winchester cathedral but I got directions from a passer-by and arrived shortly afterwards at the end of a path lined by trees which hid the cathedral from view.
Winchester cathedral (there will be a separate page later for Winchester cathedral)
Entering the cathedral, I stood just inside the doorway. It was cool, and dark after the bright sunshine outside. A 'meeter and greeter' said there was a small chapel for private prayer, but the cathedral seemed too big, too full of people and the susurration of their whispers and shuffling feet echoed in the large space.
There is so much to see in Winchester cathedral and I was tempted to stay, but said a quiet prayer in the doorway and left.
Those 130 miles between Winchester and Canterbury stretched out before me, and it suddenly seemed a very long way! Feeling a little overwhelmed and tearful, I put my rucksack on, opened the map and set off on St Swithun's Way.
The Way Marker
Out through the back streets of Winchester towards the river, and the first way marker appeared near the footbridge. I'll be seeing this for the next 34 miles.
The pilgrim's scallop shell has a crozier and staff crossed behind it.
The Walk
As this walk was going to be a personal pilgrimage, I planned to go into all the churches on or very close to the path. This first stage of the walk was rich in churches; five small country churches, each one different, each one old, beautiful, peaceful and each one somewhere in which I could have spent a much longer time.
St Bartholomew's Church, Hyde
The first of the churches, just on the edge of Winchester, was St Bartholomew's.
This ancient, squat church is opposite the gatehouse to Hyde abbey. The original abbey was close to the cathedral, but was re-founded at Hyde in 1110, and the bones of King Alfred the Great interred near the high altar. The gatehouse is all that remains of the abbey. St Bartholomew's church was also built in 1110 as a parish church and for the use of the servants of Hyde abbey.
I had hoped to find a bible reading or prayer in the church but in this first one there was nothing other than some modern, beautiful Byzantine-like faces painted on the rood screen and a beautiful stained glass window.
Like the small churches, these jewel-like windows are one of the themes running through this walk. I never get tired of looking at them and marvelling at the variation of designs.
Winnal Moors Nature Reserve
From here the path ran along the shallow valley of the River Itchen, making for easy walking. Lots of noise from traffic on the busy A34 and M3 nearby but the view was lovely - a pastoral scene with frothy cow parsley lining the path, butterflies fluttering along and a few, early damselflies.
Cow parsley is a favourite of mine. It belongs to the family of umbellifers (now called Apiacae), a group in which I have a particular interest. The wetlands to the right of the river is the Winnal Moors Nature Reserve and somewhere in there is water parsnip - another umbellifer and one I've never seen. Must return!
St Mary's, Kingsworthy
Through a tunnel under the A34 and out into the small village of Kingsworthy and St Mary's church.
A bench along this path was a comfortable place to eat lunch.
A heartening sight - on the wall of the church hall, attached to St Mary's. I was to see more of these on church walls while in Hampshire.
Knapped flints are common on churches in these chalky areas. A quick search online and I found this video of how flint is knapped. Do have a look because it's fantastic to watch (not sure about the singing at the end!). I've never seen this done before and was wowed by it.
No bible on the lectern but on the way out there was a board at the back of the church and on it were these words:
"Jesus, thank you for being our Good Shepherd, for protecting us and guiding us, and dying on the cross for us. Forgive us when we don't always follow you, and keep us on the right paths."
Amen to that, especially the last part.
St Swithun's, Martyr Worthy
Across the fields following a narrow but distinct path, I met a man with a golden labrador who directed me to the church, and wished me well with the walk. This church was delightful and has an knapped flint apse - just visible at the right hand side. The bright red door, covered with metal studs, has a scroll-shaped handle which was much easier to turn than the usual large ring to be found on many church doors. The very thin windows with rounded tops suggests that at least this part of the church is ancient - information on Wikipedia says the church was mentioned in Domesday Book. This link shows the inside of the church.
A card on the lectern gave the following, from Hebrews 4 v.12
"For the word of God is alive and active. Sharper than any double-edged sword, it penetrates even to dividing the soul and spirit, joints and marrow; it judges the thoughts and attitudes of the heart."
St John the Baptist, Itchen Abbas
The river and path, previously running north, turn east shortly after Martyr Worthy. The path passes the gardens of some large houses before arriving at Itchen Abbas with its small country church.
This church is old but was refurbished in the Victorian period.
Here I found a bible on the lectern, closed, and opened it to read Luke 2 v. 22:
"When the time came for the purification rites required by the law of Moses, Joseph and Mary took him to Jerusalem to present him to the Lord."
One of the joys of walking alone is that it provides ample time to look around, and also to reflect. As I walked on towards New Alresford, I thought of Jesus who made many journeys in his short lifetime on Earth - the first when he was a baby. He was always travelling around, sometimes alone, sometimes accompanied. As I neared the end of this first stage of the walk, I knew I'd be going home, and it occurred to me that while Jesus had a home as a child, with Joseph and Mary, I didn't remember anything about him having a home in later life.
End of Stage 1
By this time, my main reflection was that I should have carried more fluid than just a flask of coffee. It was a warm day. I knew there were three pubs between Hyde and New Alresford and had planned on getting a drink at one of them. It was an unpleasant surprise to find one closed down and the other two closed. Within a mile of New Alresford, thirsty and tired, I met an elderly man with a golden labrador who offered a glass of water. "Or a cup of tea or coffee if you'd prefer. I have gin or whiskey," the last said with a twinkle and smile.
The glass of water was wonderful!
Intending to look round New Alresford, I came out of the Co-op with a bottle of water to see a bus at the stop. Without a second thought for the delights of this pretty market town, I jumped on was back in Winchester in 20 minutes, at the car 10 minutes later, and then home.
A cracking start to the walk.
Distance walked:
St Swithun's Way 7.5 miles (sponsored walk)
Total 9.0 miles (footpath plus distance to and from bus stops)
The park and ride bus dropped me at the bus station. Following directions given to me on the bus by a friendly woman who got off the stop before me, I was soon lost. A steady stream of people were walking towards an alley between two buildings so I followed. It opened out onto one of the main streets in Winchester, and on the wall opposite the end of the alley was this:
The Scripture Truth says:
Trust in the
Lord with all
thine heart;
and
lean not unto
thine own
understanding.
The signpost listed many places but not Winchester cathedral but I got directions from a passer-by and arrived shortly afterwards at the end of a path lined by trees which hid the cathedral from view.
Winchester cathedral (there will be a separate page later for Winchester cathedral)
There is so much to see in Winchester cathedral and I was tempted to stay, but said a quiet prayer in the doorway and left.
Those 130 miles between Winchester and Canterbury stretched out before me, and it suddenly seemed a very long way! Feeling a little overwhelmed and tearful, I put my rucksack on, opened the map and set off on St Swithun's Way.
The Way Marker
Out through the back streets of Winchester towards the river, and the first way marker appeared near the footbridge. I'll be seeing this for the next 34 miles.
The pilgrim's scallop shell has a crozier and staff crossed behind it.
The Walk
As this walk was going to be a personal pilgrimage, I planned to go into all the churches on or very close to the path. This first stage of the walk was rich in churches; five small country churches, each one different, each one old, beautiful, peaceful and each one somewhere in which I could have spent a much longer time.
St Bartholomew's Church, Hyde
The first of the churches, just on the edge of Winchester, was St Bartholomew's.
This ancient, squat church is opposite the gatehouse to Hyde abbey. The original abbey was close to the cathedral, but was re-founded at Hyde in 1110, and the bones of King Alfred the Great interred near the high altar. The gatehouse is all that remains of the abbey. St Bartholomew's church was also built in 1110 as a parish church and for the use of the servants of Hyde abbey.
I had hoped to find a bible reading or prayer in the church but in this first one there was nothing other than some modern, beautiful Byzantine-like faces painted on the rood screen and a beautiful stained glass window.
Like the small churches, these jewel-like windows are one of the themes running through this walk. I never get tired of looking at them and marvelling at the variation of designs.
Winnal Moors Nature Reserve
From here the path ran along the shallow valley of the River Itchen, making for easy walking. Lots of noise from traffic on the busy A34 and M3 nearby but the view was lovely - a pastoral scene with frothy cow parsley lining the path, butterflies fluttering along and a few, early damselflies.
Cow parsley is a favourite of mine. It belongs to the family of umbellifers (now called Apiacae), a group in which I have a particular interest. The wetlands to the right of the river is the Winnal Moors Nature Reserve and somewhere in there is water parsnip - another umbellifer and one I've never seen. Must return!
St Mary's, Kingsworthy
Through a tunnel under the A34 and out into the small village of Kingsworthy and St Mary's church.
A bench along this path was a comfortable place to eat lunch.
Knapped flints are common on churches in these chalky areas. A quick search online and I found this video of how flint is knapped. Do have a look because it's fantastic to watch (not sure about the singing at the end!). I've never seen this done before and was wowed by it.
No bible on the lectern but on the way out there was a board at the back of the church and on it were these words:
"Jesus, thank you for being our Good Shepherd, for protecting us and guiding us, and dying on the cross for us. Forgive us when we don't always follow you, and keep us on the right paths."
Amen to that, especially the last part.
St Swithun's, Martyr Worthy
Across the fields following a narrow but distinct path, I met a man with a golden labrador who directed me to the church, and wished me well with the walk. This church was delightful and has an knapped flint apse - just visible at the right hand side. The bright red door, covered with metal studs, has a scroll-shaped handle which was much easier to turn than the usual large ring to be found on many church doors. The very thin windows with rounded tops suggests that at least this part of the church is ancient - information on Wikipedia says the church was mentioned in Domesday Book. This link shows the inside of the church.
A card on the lectern gave the following, from Hebrews 4 v.12
"For the word of God is alive and active. Sharper than any double-edged sword, it penetrates even to dividing the soul and spirit, joints and marrow; it judges the thoughts and attitudes of the heart."
St John the Baptist, Itchen Abbas
The river and path, previously running north, turn east shortly after Martyr Worthy. The path passes the gardens of some large houses before arriving at Itchen Abbas with its small country church.
Here I found a bible on the lectern, closed, and opened it to read Luke 2 v. 22:
"When the time came for the purification rites required by the law of Moses, Joseph and Mary took him to Jerusalem to present him to the Lord."
One of the joys of walking alone is that it provides ample time to look around, and also to reflect. As I walked on towards New Alresford, I thought of Jesus who made many journeys in his short lifetime on Earth - the first when he was a baby. He was always travelling around, sometimes alone, sometimes accompanied. As I neared the end of this first stage of the walk, I knew I'd be going home, and it occurred to me that while Jesus had a home as a child, with Joseph and Mary, I didn't remember anything about him having a home in later life.
End of Stage 1
By this time, my main reflection was that I should have carried more fluid than just a flask of coffee. It was a warm day. I knew there were three pubs between Hyde and New Alresford and had planned on getting a drink at one of them. It was an unpleasant surprise to find one closed down and the other two closed. Within a mile of New Alresford, thirsty and tired, I met an elderly man with a golden labrador who offered a glass of water. "Or a cup of tea or coffee if you'd prefer. I have gin or whiskey," the last said with a twinkle and smile.
The glass of water was wonderful!
Intending to look round New Alresford, I came out of the Co-op with a bottle of water to see a bus at the stop. Without a second thought for the delights of this pretty market town, I jumped on was back in Winchester in 20 minutes, at the car 10 minutes later, and then home.
A cracking start to the walk.
Distance walked:
St Swithun's Way 7.5 miles (sponsored walk)
Total 9.0 miles (footpath plus distance to and from bus stops)
Planning the Walk
I like to plan things, and a 130 mile walk along paths I'd never walked before called for some planning. Getting the first map, working out how far to walk on the first stretch, looking at the change in heights involved, is all grist to a walker's mill.
I wanted to walk from Winchester to Canterbury along the Pilgrim's Way, following in the footsteps of pilgrims down the ages. And then the surprises started.
The Pilgrim's Way
The path had been in use for centuries before the pilgrims set foot on it; the ancient trackway along the lower slopes of the North Downs was an important east-west link between various prehistoric settlements. Pilgrimages setting out from Winchester used much of this old route to travel east, especially after the murder of Thomas Becket in 1170 and his becoming a saint, when Canterbury became one of the most important centres of pilgrimage in Christendom. Pilgrimage reached its height of popularity towards the end of the 14th century, when Chaucer wrote his Canterbury Tales.
The route was still in use until the 18th century when the introduction of turnpikes, with tolls to pay, drove many to use the old, free route.
With all this history, and the long use as a path of pilgrimage, it was a disappointment to find that today the Pilgrim's Way no longer exists as a complete path. 80 miles or so can be walked still, but there is no public right of way along some parts, and there are sections where all knowledge of the path has been lost. Even when pilgrims were using it regularly, they would deviate from the old route to visit local churches and shrines.
This was all very interesting but I had lost the plot...or path...and needed to get on with planning.
St Swithun's Way
A modern pilgrim can still walk from Winchester to Canterbury, along pleasant paths and roads. The first 34 miles, from Winchester to Farnham, Surrey, is along the St. Swithun's Way. Opened in 2002 by Hampshire County Council to mark the Golden Jubilee of Queen Elizabeth II, this excellent path follows an approximate route only of the Pilgrim's Way.
This led to another information foray to find out about St Swithun, an Anglo-Saxon bishop of Winchester from 852 to his death in 862. His feast day is 15th July, famously connected with the weather - if it rains on his day tradition says it will rain for 40 days. It's been shown the jet stream moves at around this time of year and gets fixed either north or south of Britain usually until the end of August...but I digress again. If you want to digress and find out a bit more about St Swithun then click here .
North Downs Way
The North Downs way begins at Farnham and goes to Kent, and passes through Canterbury on its way to the coast. And there are choices to be made: whether to follow the well way-marked, North Downs Way, or to walk on those stretches of the Pilgrims Way still open to public access.
The Walk
I had to work out just how was I going to do the walk. All 130 miles in one go? I quailed at the thought as it would take me from home for at least a month - the garden would run riot! And just how far could I walk every day, day after day? I didn't know. Trying to work this out held me up for a long time. Part of me said "Just go", the rest of me said "No" and stayed put.
By May, nothing had happened. Sponsor forms had been printed, people were signing their names. I needed to get walking.
I looked up bus times and car parks (hurrah for the Internet and Google Maps!) and decided to drive to Winchester, use the park and ride, walk 9 miles - or as much as I could manage - catch a bus back to Winchester, and drive home.
So that's what I did on Monday 19th May - details and photos in the next post.
I wanted to walk from Winchester to Canterbury along the Pilgrim's Way, following in the footsteps of pilgrims down the ages. And then the surprises started.
The Pilgrim's Way
The path had been in use for centuries before the pilgrims set foot on it; the ancient trackway along the lower slopes of the North Downs was an important east-west link between various prehistoric settlements. Pilgrimages setting out from Winchester used much of this old route to travel east, especially after the murder of Thomas Becket in 1170 and his becoming a saint, when Canterbury became one of the most important centres of pilgrimage in Christendom. Pilgrimage reached its height of popularity towards the end of the 14th century, when Chaucer wrote his Canterbury Tales.
The route was still in use until the 18th century when the introduction of turnpikes, with tolls to pay, drove many to use the old, free route.
With all this history, and the long use as a path of pilgrimage, it was a disappointment to find that today the Pilgrim's Way no longer exists as a complete path. 80 miles or so can be walked still, but there is no public right of way along some parts, and there are sections where all knowledge of the path has been lost. Even when pilgrims were using it regularly, they would deviate from the old route to visit local churches and shrines.
This was all very interesting but I had lost the plot...or path...and needed to get on with planning.
St Swithun's Way
A modern pilgrim can still walk from Winchester to Canterbury, along pleasant paths and roads. The first 34 miles, from Winchester to Farnham, Surrey, is along the St. Swithun's Way. Opened in 2002 by Hampshire County Council to mark the Golden Jubilee of Queen Elizabeth II, this excellent path follows an approximate route only of the Pilgrim's Way.
This led to another information foray to find out about St Swithun, an Anglo-Saxon bishop of Winchester from 852 to his death in 862. His feast day is 15th July, famously connected with the weather - if it rains on his day tradition says it will rain for 40 days. It's been shown the jet stream moves at around this time of year and gets fixed either north or south of Britain usually until the end of August...but I digress again. If you want to digress and find out a bit more about St Swithun then click here .
North Downs Way
The North Downs way begins at Farnham and goes to Kent, and passes through Canterbury on its way to the coast. And there are choices to be made: whether to follow the well way-marked, North Downs Way, or to walk on those stretches of the Pilgrims Way still open to public access.
The Walk
I had to work out just how was I going to do the walk. All 130 miles in one go? I quailed at the thought as it would take me from home for at least a month - the garden would run riot! And just how far could I walk every day, day after day? I didn't know. Trying to work this out held me up for a long time. Part of me said "Just go", the rest of me said "No" and stayed put.
By May, nothing had happened. Sponsor forms had been printed, people were signing their names. I needed to get walking.
I looked up bus times and car parks (hurrah for the Internet and Google Maps!) and decided to drive to Winchester, use the park and ride, walk 9 miles - or as much as I could manage - catch a bus back to Winchester, and drive home.
So that's what I did on Monday 19th May - details and photos in the next post.
Saturday 7 June 2014
The Background
I'd been watching Simon Reeve's series 'Pilgrimage' with great enjoyment, musing about how so many young presenters take themselves off to interesting, and often exotic, locations to make television programmes. Simon Reeve came to the end of the last programme, looked directly at the camera, and said with such enthusiasm and conviction,
"Go on a pilgrimage!"
I responded with equal enthusiasm, leaping up from the chair, shouting,
"Yes! Great idea!"
And really meant it.
As often with enthusiasm and good ideas, this faded into the background, pushed out of sight by the concerns of everyday living...until the following appeared:
St. Peter's Church, Wellesbourne.
New heating system urgently required!
How can you help?
I thought about what I could do: I make 'quality' cakes - but it's best not to enquire too closely about the quality! Scones ditto - although they might make good missiles for a coconut shy. I'd cleared out the loft last winter and the contents amounted to a box of photographs (kept for sentimental reasons), a couple of threadbare rugs (destined to cover the new compost bin), and a collection of items which even the most imaginative of minds would categorise as junk (destined for the tip).
Getting nowhere I considered what I liked doing: eating, sleeping, reading. A sponsored read perhaps? It seemed a little too sedentary. In spite of appreciating a doze in the afternoon, I like to be active. What I really enjoy is walking...
...and that's when my response to Simon Reeve's words came back to me. I remembered him walking along the Pilgrims' Way; Winchester to Canterbury. I could do that.
I could do it as a sponsored walk!
"Go on a pilgrimage!"
I responded with equal enthusiasm, leaping up from the chair, shouting,
"Yes! Great idea!"
And really meant it.
As often with enthusiasm and good ideas, this faded into the background, pushed out of sight by the concerns of everyday living...until the following appeared:
St. Peter's Church, Wellesbourne.
New heating system urgently required!
How can you help?
I thought about what I could do: I make 'quality' cakes - but it's best not to enquire too closely about the quality! Scones ditto - although they might make good missiles for a coconut shy. I'd cleared out the loft last winter and the contents amounted to a box of photographs (kept for sentimental reasons), a couple of threadbare rugs (destined to cover the new compost bin), and a collection of items which even the most imaginative of minds would categorise as junk (destined for the tip).
Getting nowhere I considered what I liked doing: eating, sleeping, reading. A sponsored read perhaps? It seemed a little too sedentary. In spite of appreciating a doze in the afternoon, I like to be active. What I really enjoy is walking...
...and that's when my response to Simon Reeve's words came back to me. I remembered him walking along the Pilgrims' Way; Winchester to Canterbury. I could do that.
I could do it as a sponsored walk!
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